Mount Rainier Climb

Mount Rainier is undeniable. At almost 14,400 feet Mount Rainier is the third highest peak in the lower 48 states and arguably the most massive, high alpine peak. We will climb Mount Rainier via the Kautz Route for a more enjoyable experience away from the crowds. This route is slightly more advanced than the standard Emmons Glacier and Disappointment Cleaver Route. 

July 8, 2018 - July 11, 2018

$1,495.00
Difficulty rating and Skill requirements

Prior mountaineering experience highly recommended;
Helpful skills would be glacier travel experience and solid cramponing skills.

Very good physical fitness;
you should be able to hike or climb for 5 to 6 hours with a pack varying from 35 to 40 lbs. and ascend 3,000 to 4,000 feet of vertical gain per day for 2 to 3 consecutive days.

  • Category: Alpine
  • Type: Guided
  • Ratio: 2:1,4:2
Mount Rainier is undeniable. At almost 14,400 feet Mount Rainier is the third highest peak in the lower 48 states and arguably the most massive, high alpine peak. We will climb Mount Rainier via the Kautz Route for a more enjoyable experience away from the crowds. This route is slightly more advanced than the standard Emmons Glacier and Disappointment Cleaver Route. Are you ready for an experience of a lifetime in the Washington Cascades? Join us. Space is limited.
Suggested Itinerary:
Day one:
We will meet in Ashford just outside the Park, conduct a gear check and then commute up to the Paradise Parking lot. We will hike up past Panorama Point, across the lower Nisqually Glacier, up the Wilson Gully and on to about 8500 feet on the Wilson Glacier. It should take no longer than 5 hours to get there and leave plenty of time for enjoyment of this spectacular zone. 
Day two:
After a bit more of a leisurely start we will pack up and climb up the Turtle Snowfield and establish another camp at around 10900 feet a few hundred feet below Camp Hazard. This will put us in perfect position for our Summit day the next day. The rest of the day is dedicated to lounging and hydrating. We call this day an active rest day. This extra day at moderate altitude makes a huge difference in acclimatization. 
Day three:
Summit day. We have to get up early and get going (at around 3:30 am) so that we can get up and out of the Kautz Chutes. From there the route will take us the upper Kautz Glacier, across the Wapowety Cleaver to the upper Nisqually Glacier on to the Columbia Crest Summit at 14411 feet. If all is well, we should be on the summit in the middle of the morning (average ascent time is about 5 hours) and back in our camp below Camp Hazard by early afternoon at the latest. On average the roundtrip time from Camp Hazard takes about 9 to 10 hours. After a well deserved rest we will pack up and move our camp back down to the Wilson Glacier camp at 8400 feet. 
Day four:
We will pack up and return to Paradise via the Wilson and Lower Nisqually Glaciers. This is a very entertaining and spectacular way back down the mountain. We should be back in the Paradise Parking lot in the late morning.

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Sign up for a course or a trip and receive a 10% discount on purchases and a 20% discount on gear rental. Go to Pro Ski and Mountain Service


Pro Ski and Mountain Service is our retail specialty store. It has been located in North Bend, WA since 1999.


The past trips and courses have had a large influence on what we sell. Many of our Pro Guiding customers come on trips and courses with gear they purchased from our store. Not only do we want our clients to have the right gear for the job; we also receive direct feedback from them while they are using it in the field. Trust us - if the gear does not work - we won't sell it.


MOUNT RAINIER 
EQUIPMENT LIST AND FAQ’S
FAQ’S:
WHERE WILL WE BE CLIMBING?
WE WILL BE CIMBING ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF MOUNT RAINIER. THE NAMES OF THE GLACIERS ARE NISQUALLY, WILSON, KAUTZ. 
HOW MUCH PRIOR MOUNTAINEERING EXPERIENCE IS REQUIRED?
SOME BASIC MOUNTAINEERING EXPERIENCE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. VERY GOOD FITNESS WILL ENHANCE THE QUALITY OF YOUR WEEK SUBSTANTIALLY. 
CAN I USE THIS WEEKS AS PREP WEEKS FOR HARDER CLIMBS IN THE ALPS?
YES, THIS WEEK WILL LAY A GOOD FOUNDATION FOR MANY GUIDED OR SELF GUIDED CLIMBS TO COME. IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN THE ALPS IN PARTICULAR, THIS WEEK WOULD BE AN EXCELLENT SHAKE DOWN FOR A MONT BLANC ASCENT OR A MONTE ROSA TRAVERSE WEEK.
DOES PGS PROVIDE THE FOOD?
NO, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN FOOD.  WE ARE GLAD TO HELP WITH FOOD SUGGESTIONS THOUGH AND WE DO PROVIDE THE TENTS, STOVES AND FUEL. 
HOW BIG OR RATHER HOW SMALL SHOULD MY PACK BE?
TRY TO FIT YOUR GEAR INTO A 50 LITER PACK. 
HOW DO I GET TO MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK, WA?
To reach the Southwest Corner of the park (Nisqually, Longmire and Paradise) from Seattle, Tacoma, Yakima, or Portland:
From Seattle
South on I-5 to SR 512 (exit 127). East on SR 512 to SR 7. South on SR 7 to SR 706 in Elbe. East on SR 706 through Ashford to the Nisqually Entrance.
From Tacoma
East on SR 512 to SR 7. South on SR 7 to SR 706 in Elbe. East on SR 706 through Ashford to the Nisqually Entrance.
From Yakima
In Summer: West on US 12 to SR 123. North on SR 123 to the Stevens Canyon Entrance. Follow Stevens Canyon Road west to Paradise and Longmire.
In winter: West on US 12 to SR 7 in Morton. North on SR 7 to Elbe. East on SR 706 through Ashford to the Nisqually Entrance and Longmire/Paradise.
From Portland
North on I-5 to Hwy 12 (exit 68). East on Hwy 12 to SR 7 in Morton. North on SR 7 to SR 706 in Elbe. East on SR 706 to the Nisqually Entrance. 
 
EQUIPMENT LIST
CLOTHING
•            BASE  LAYER
o            1 Bottom - midweight or lightweight
o            Non-Cotton Underwear
o            1 or 2 Tops - midweight or lightweight
o            Sock Liners - 2 or 3 pair
o            Socks - 2 pair
•            MID LAYER
o            Windshirt, Soft Shell, Fleece Jacket - only one of these is necessary
o            Soft Shell type pants
•            OUTERWEAR
o            Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Jacket
o            Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Pant
 o            Warm Hat - should cover ears
o            Sun Hat - baseball type or visor
o            Lightweight Gloves - wind block or fleece/wool type
o            Warm Gloves
o            Gaiters - low top or full size
•            INSULATION
o            Down or Synthetic Jacket
PERSONAL GEAR
o            Internal Frame Pack - 50 Liter (3100 cu in.) minimum
o            Sleeping Bag - down or synthetic, 20 deg. F. minimum
o            Sleeping Pad - closed cell foam or self inflating
o            Mountaineering Boots - leather or synthetic, crampon compatible
o            Headlamp - lightweight LED recommended w/ extra batteries
o            Water Bottles - 1 or 2 liters, wide mouth
o            Water Purification - tablets or filter
o            Bowl or Cup
o            Utensils
o            Small Knife
o            Glacier Glasses
o            Sunscreen - SPF 25+, waterproof
o            Lip Balm - SPF 15+
o            Lighter or Matches
o            Personal Toiletries - toothbrush, toothpaste, waterless hand cleaner, etc.
o            Small Personal 1st Aid Kit - blister repair, aspirin, ibuprofen, etc.
TECHNICAL GEAR
o            Ice Axe - 55-70 cm length
o            Crampons - 10 or 12 point steel, pre-fit to boots
o            Anti-ball plates - for crampons
o            Climbing Helmet - UIAA approved only
o            Climbing Harness - mountaineering style (e.g. B.D. Alpine Bod)
o            Locking Biners (2) - (1) large HMS style and (1) regular locker
o            Non-locking Biners (3) - any style, we prefer wire gate type
o            Cordelette (1) - 6 mm diameter, 6 meter lengths, untied
o            Sewn Slings (1) - 1 single length (60 cm), 1 double length (120 cm)
o            Ice Screws (1) - 13-22 cm length
OPTIONAL ITEMS *We highly recommend these items, but do not require them to participate
o            Adjustable Trekking Pole(s) - nice to have for approach/crevasse navigation
o            Camera - we’re always looking for some shots for the PGS website!
o            Ear Plugs - essential for sound sleep
o            Thermos - vacuum type
o            Note Pad and Pencil - Rite-in-the-Rain brand waterproof notebook works
o            Ropeman or Tibloc - used in the crevasse rescue system
o            Compass - adjustable declination required
o            Altimeter - Suunto watch works well
o            Map Case - large zip-loc will suffice
o            Collapsible Water Canteen -  good for storing snowmelt at camp
GROUP GEAR PROVIDED BY PGS *Please contact the guiding office if you prefer to bring your own gear in place of any of our group gear.
o            Tents
o            Stoves
o            Fuel
o            Cooking Pots
o            Ropes
o            Technical Group Gear (elaborate crevasse rescue kit, ropes, pickets, VHF radio, SAT phone)
o            Group 1st Aid Kit
 
 
 
 
Pro Ski Service Logo

Sign up for a course or a trip and receive a 10% discount on purchases and a 20% discount on gear rental.


Pro Ski and Mountain Service is our retail specialty store. It has been located in North Bend, WA since 1999. The past trips and courses have had a large influence on what we sell. Many of our Pro Guiding customers come on trips and courses with gear they purchased from our store. Not only do we want our clients to have the right gear for the job; we also receive direct feedback from them while they are using it in the field. Trust us - if the gear does not work - we won't sell it.