Matterhorn Hornli Ridge and Zermatt day trips

Just about every mountaineer wants to climb the Matterhorn at some point. We'll do it...and then some.

July 30, 2017 - August 3, 2017

$2,620.00
Difficulty rating and Skill requirements

Prior mounaineering experience required;
One should have glacier travel experience, solid cramponing and rock climbing skills up to 5.6 YDS. Continuous movement in exposed terrain should not be a problem. Elementary rope handling skills such as tying in, rappelling and belaying are required.

Excellent physiclal fitness;
you should be able to hike or climb for more than six hours with a pack varying from 20 to 40 pounds and ascend 4,000 to 5,000 feet of vertical gain per day for up to a week.

  • Category: Alpine
  • Type: Guided
  • Ratio: 2:1,4:2
Just about every mountaineer wants to climb the Matterhorn at some point. We will do that and then some. Martin Volken is a Zermatt Valley native and he can cater this trip to your liking. Any route on the Matterhorn, Weisshorn? Dent Blanche? Or more tucked away gems like the Grand Cornier? Let us know what interests you and we will try to make it happen. We suggest an itinerary, but this can be altered very easily and we would be happy to customize it for you. Customization happens on a "first come first customize basis"...
Suggested Itinerary:
Day one:
We will meet at the Hotel City in Zermatt, go over a quick gear check and then take the Gornergrat train to the scenic Riffelhorn. This day is a pretty casual with minimal approach time and alpine rock climbing up to 5.8, but with very spectacular scenery and great rock. Bring a good camera. We will sleep back at the Hotel City in Zermatt.
Day two:
An impressive gondola ride will bring us up to the Klein Matterhorn at over 3,800 meters. From here we have to traverse the Breithorn Plateau to the base of our objective on the South side of the Breithorn. The climb across the Breithorn Ridge is exposed and spectacular (summit is at 4,164 meters).
Day three:
After two days of climbing, the relatively easy hike to the Matterhornhut via Schwarzsee will be rather welcome. It takes about 2 hours to reach the hut at about 3,200 meters.
Day four:
We will get up at 3:30am and depart the hut by 4am at the latest. The starting pace can be hectic, but this subsides after about 30 minutes. Our total ascent time to the 4,478 meters summit should be somewhere around 4.5 hours. The descent time takes just about the same amount of time. We will be back at the hut in the early afternoon, take a good break and then descend to Zermatt.
Day five:
This day is built into the program as a rest and or weather day. If conditions are right and the participants are still up for a climb, we could summit peaks like the Weissmiess (4,023 meters) via the North Ridge, the Laquin (4,011 meters) via the South Ridge, maybe Monte Rosa will be in shape instead of the Matterhorn. It will be a physically intense week and you can expect to experience a lot of mountain time.

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MATTERHORN AND THE ZERMATT VALLEY
EQUIPMENT LIST AND FAQ’S
FAQ’S
WHAT IS THE EASIEST WAY TO GET TO ZERMATT? 
YOU CAN FLY INTO ZURICH OR GENEVA. BOTH OF THE AIRPORT FEATURE A STATE OF THE ART TRAINSTATION RIGHT UNDER OR NEXT TO THE BAGGAGE CLAIM AREA. TRAINS LEAVE EVERY HOUR.
TAKE A TRAIN TO BRIG AND THEN SWITCH TRAINS THERE TO ZERMATT.  FOR MORE DETAILED INFORMATION GO TO:
HTTP://MCT.SBB.CH/MCT/EN/INT-GAESTE.HTM
WHERE WILL WE STAY IN ZERMATT?
WE HAVE GOOD FRIENDS IN ZERMATT WHO OWN THE HOTEL CITY. CHRISTOPH AND ANJA ARE AVID OUTDOOR PEOPLE THEMSELVES (CHRISTOPH IS A MOUNTAIN GUIDE AS WELL) AND THEY FRIENDLY AND SUPER HELPFUL IN PRETRIP CONDITION UPDATES.
. www.cityzermatt.ch
HAVE YOU GUIDED THE MATTERHORN BEFORE?
YES, MARTIN HAS GUIDED THE MATTERHORN ABOUT 20 TIMES AND RINALDO HAS GUIDED IT MORE THAN THAT ON MULTIPLE ROUTES. 
WHAT IF THE WEATHER DOES NOT COOPERATE?
THAT IS A POSSIBILITY. ALL WE CAN DO IS OUR PART BY BEING PREPARED. SINCE WE ARE FROM THE AREA, WE HAVE MANY ALTERNATIVE OPTIONS, WE HAVE TRANSPORTATION AND THE LOCAL KNOWLEDGE. WE WILL BE MOBILE. YOU UP YOUR CHANCES OF SUCCEEDING ON THE MATTERHORN BY ESSENTIALLY BEING PREPARED TO CLIMB IT RIGHT AWAY IF YOU HAVE TO, MEANING YOU DO NOT TREAT THE FIRST FOUR DAYS AS A LEARNING HOW TO ALPINE CLIMB PHASE. A PERSON WHO IS FIT, CAN GET READY TO BE GUIDED UP THE MATTERHORN IN A FEW DAYS, BUT THIS MIGHT BE THE WINDOW WHERE THE WEATHER IS GOOD. 
AS EXAMPLES FOR GREAT PREP CLIMBS, PLEASE LOOK AT OUR NORTH CASCADES PROGRAMS LIKE THE CLASSIC NORTH FACE ROUTES OR THE MIXED MOUNTAINEERING COURSE.
HTTP://WWW.PROGUIDING.COM/TRIP/VIEW/MIXED-MOUNTAINEERING-CAMP-IN-NORTH-CASCADES-NATIONAL-PARK
HTTP://WWW.PROGUIDING.COM/TRIP/VIEW/CLASSIC-NORTH-FACES-OF-THE-NORTH-CASCADES 
EQUIPMENT LIST
CLOTHING
•            BASE  LAYER
o            1 Bottom - midweight or lightweight
o            Non-Cotton Underwear
o            1 or 2 Tops - midweight or lightweight
o            Sock Liners - 2 or 3 pair
o            Socks - 2 pair
•            MID LAYER
o            Windshirt, Soft Shell, Fleece Jacket - only one of these is necessary
o            Soft shell type pants
o            Shorts
•            OUTERWEAR
o            Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Jacket
o            Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Pants - may be omitted w/ soft shell type pants
o            Warm Hat - should cover ears
o            Sun Hat - baseball type or visor
o            Lightweight Gloves - wind block or fleece/wool type
o            Warm Gloves
o            Gaiters - low top or full size
•            INSULATION
o            Down or Synthetic Jacket
PERSONAL GEAR
o            Day Pack - 35 Liter (2200 cu in.) minimum
o            Mountaineering Boots - leather or synthetic, crampon compatible
o            Headlamp – lightweight LED recommended w/ extra batteries
o            Water Bottles - 1 or 2 liters, wide mouth
o            Small Knife
o            Glacier Glasses
o            Sunscreen - SPF 25+, waterproof
o            Lip Balm - SPF 15+
o            Personal Toiletries - toothbrush, toothpaste, etc.
              waterless hand cleaner (wet wipes) - there is no running water in the huts
o            Small Personal 1st Aid Kit - blister repair, aspirin, ibuprofen, etc.
o            Sleeping bag liner – they can also be purchased in the huts
o            Ear Plugs - essential for sound sleep
TECHNICAL GEAR
o            Ice Axe - 55-70 cm length, steel head only
o            Crampons – STEEL; NO ALUMINIUM, 12 point, pre-fit to boots
o            Anti-ball plates - for crampons
o            Climbing Helmet - UIAA approved only
o            Climbing Harness - mountaineering style (e.g. B.D. Alpine Bod)
o            Locking Biners (2) - (1) large HMS style and (1) regular locker
o            Non-locking Biners (4) - any style, we prefer wire gate type
o            Cordelettes (2) - 6 mm diameter, 6 meter lengths, untied
o            Sewn Slings (2) - 1 single length (60 cm), 1 double length (120 cm)
o            Ice Screws (2) - 13-17 cm length
OPTIONAL ITEMS *We highly recommend these items, but do not require them to participate.
o            Camera - we’d like some shots for the PGS website!
o            Adjustable Trekking Pole(s) - nice to have for approach
o            Thermos - vacuum type
o            Note Pad and Pencil - Rite-in-the-Rain brand waterproof notebook works
o            Compass - adjustable declination a must
o            Altimeter - Suunto watch works well
o            Warm Socks - to sleep in
o            Foot Powder
o            Cash - to purchase water and food in the huts
GROUP GEAR PROVIDED BY PGS *Please contact the guiding office if you prefer to bring your own gear in place of any of our group gear.
o            Ropes
o            Technical Group Gear (crevasse rescue kit), VHF radio
o            Group 1st Aid Kit