Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys

Mount Shuksan's Fisher Chimeys is one of the very classic Cascadian alpine routes up the arguably most iconic peak in North Cascades National Park. You will do it all. A scenic hike, climb a complicated series of chimneys, camp in an amazing setting, cross several glaciers and climb the spectacular summit pyramid to the summit of Mount Shuksan.



See full description below
$810.00
Difficulty rating and Skill requirements
Very good fitness and some prior alpine climbing experience.
  • Category: Alpine
  • Type: Guided
  • Ratio: 2:1,4:2

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Please contact us for a private arrangement if none of the offered dates fit your schedule. 
Mount Shuksan's Fisher Chimeys is one of the very classic cascadian alpine routes up the most iconic peak (and most photographed) in North Cascades National Park. To get to this 9127 foot summit, you will do it all. Start with a scenic hike, climb a complicated series of chimneys, camp in an amazing setting, cross several glaciers and climb the spectacular summit pyramid to the summit of Mount Shuksan. The Fisher Chimneys Route is longer and more involved than the standard Sulphide Glacier route and our three day program offers an ideal itinerary to make the experience enjoyable. The Fisher Chimneys route is also a great preparatory climb for any of our climbs offered in the Alps. All routes on Mount Shuksan culminate with the imposing 700 foot summit pyramid which is commonly climbed up a central snow and rock gully, or the aesthetic mid fifth class rock of the southeast ridge. 
Even though the climb is a "guided climb" and not an "instructional course", we love to teach along the way and you can expect to be exposed to movement in exposed fourth class terrain, extensive roped glacier travel, potentially some crampon front pointing and some mid fifth class rock climbing. It is important to be physically well prepared for this exciting climb. The climb is strenuous and the terrain demanding. Strong physical fitness will make your experience much more enjoyable. 
Itinerary:
Day 1: We will meet at the Ranger Station in Glacier, WA, conduct a gear check and proceed to the Lake Anne trailhead. From here we actually descend 800 feet of vertical into the headwaters of Swift Creek before reascending to the beautiful Lake Anne. Not far from here we will start climbing into the Fisher Chimneys. There is no hard climbing here (it is all 3rd and 4th class), but there is some exposure in sections. From the top of the chimneys we are not far from our camp at the  bottom of a spot called Winnies slide. The camp spot near the top of the White Salmon Glacier is very scenic and located at about 6800 feet. 
Day 2: An early morning start gets us up the short remaining section of the White Salmon Glacier, then up a section of the Upper Curtis Glacier, onward through Hells Highway and on to the Sulphide Glacier on the south side of the mountain. This section alone is very entertaining and spectacular, though never technically difficult. Now we still have to climb the 700 foot summit pyramid of Mount Shuksan. Most of the time this gets accomplished by climbing the classic "summit gully", which is a 4th class scramble for the most part. More experienced parties can opt to climb the mid fifth class South East Ridge. This route offers moderate rock climbing on solid rock in an unforgettable ambience. We will return back to camp via our ascent route. Camp to Camp travel time hovers usually between 7 to 8 hours. A beautiful evening in a relaxed post-climb atmosphere with the sunset over Mount Baker will conclude this day. 
Day 3: After a little bit later start than on the second day, we will pack up our gear and head down the Chimneys and back to the trailhead. You can assume to be back in the Bellingham in the middle of the afternoon and Seattle in the early evening. 
Check out the video below. Martin Volken shot this video during an AMGA Alpine exam and much of the first half of the footage shows the Shuksan Fisher Chimney's route. 
 

Sign up for a course or a trip and receive a 10% discount on purchases and a 20% discount on gear rental. Go to Pro Ski and Mountain Service. Pro Ski and Mountain Service is our retail specialty store. It has been located in North Bend, WA since 1999. The past trips and courses have had a large influence on what we sell. Many of our Pro Guiding customers come on trips and courses with gear they purchased from our store. Not only do we want our clients to have the right gear for the job; we also receive direct feedback from them while they are using it in the field. Trust us - if the gear does not work - we won't sell it.


EQUIPMENT LIST AND FAQ’S
FAQ’S:
HOW MUCH PRIOR MOUNTAINEERING EXPERIENCE IS REQUIRED?
A BIT OF PRIOR MOUNTAINEERING IS RECOMMENDED.
CAN I USE THIS GUIDED WEEK AS A PREP WEEK FOR HARDER CLIMBS IN THE ALPS?
YES, IT IS PERFECT FOR THAT AND SOME OF THE CLIMBS ARE JUST AS HARD AS THE ALPS CLIMBING OBJECTIVES.
DOES PGS PROVIDE THE FOOD?
NO, YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR OWN FOOD.  WE ARE GLAD TO HELP WITH FOOD SUGGESTIONS THOUGH.
HOW BIG OR RATHER HOW SMALL SHOULD MY PACK BE?
TRY TO FIT YOUR GEAR INTO A 50 LITER PACK. IF THE WEEK IS CONDUCTED OUT OF AN ESTABLISHED BASECAMP, YOU COULD CONSIDER A BIGGER PACK ALONG WITH A SUMMIT PACK.  
EQUIPMENT LIST
PLEASE KEEP IN MIND THAT THIS EQUIPMENT LIST IS GENERIC AND MIGHT HAVE TO BE MODIFIED DEPENDING ON THE TECHNICAL NATURE OF THE TRIP.
CLOTHING
•            BASE  LAYER
o            1 Bottom - midweight or lightweight
o            Non-Cotton Underwear
o            1 or 2 Tops - midweight or lightweight
o            Sock Liners - 2 or 3 pair
o            Socks - 2 pair
•            MID LAYER
o            Windshirt, Soft Shell, Fleece Jacket - only one of these is necessary
o            Soft Shell type pants
•            OUTERWEAR
o            Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Jacket
o            Lightweight Waterproof/Breathable Pants - may be omitted w/ soft shell type pants
o            Warm Hat - should cover ears
o            Sun Hat - baseball type or visor
o            Lightweight Gloves - wind block or fleece/wool type
o            Warm Gloves
o            Gaiters - low top or full size
•            INSULATION
o            Down or Synthetic Jacket
PERSONAL GEAR 
o            Internal Frame Pack - 50 Liter (3100 cu in.) minimum
o            Sleeping Bag - down or synthetic, 20 deg. F. minimum
o            Sleeping Pad - closed cell foam or self inflating
o            Mountaineering Boots - leather or synthetic, crampon compatible
o            Headlamp - lightweight LED recommended w/ extra batteries
o            Water Bottles - 1 or 2 liters, wide mouth
o            Water Purification - tablets or filter
o            Bowl or Cup
o            Utensils
o            Small Knife
o            Glacier Glasses
o            Sunscreen - SPF 25+, waterproof
o            Lip Balm - SPF 15+
o            Lighter or Matches
o            Personal Toiletries - toothbrush, toothpaste, waterless hand cleaner, etc.
o            Small Personal 1st Aid Kit - blister repair, aspirin, ibuprofen, etc.
TECHNICAL GEAR
o            Ice Axe - 55-70 cm length
o            Crampons - 10 or 12 point steel or aluminum depending on  conditions and route.
o            Anti-ball plates - for crampons
o            Climbing Helmet - UIAA approved only
o            Climbing Harness - mountaineering style (e.g. B.D. Alpine Bod)
o            Locking Biners (2) - (1) large HMS style and (1) regular locker
o            Non-locking Biners (4) - any style, we prefer wire gate type
o            Cordelettes (1) - 6 mm diameter, 6 meter lengths, untied
o            Sewn Slings (2) - 1 single length (60 cm), 1 double length (120 cm)
o            Ice Screws (2) - 13-17 cm length (for North Ridge only)
OPTIONAL ITEMS *We highly recommend these items, but do not require them to participate
o            Adjustable Trekking Pole(s) - nice to have for approach/crevasse navigation
o            Camera - we’re always looking for some shots for the PGS website!
o            Ear Plugs - essential for sound sleep
o            Thermos - vacuum type
o            Note Pad and Pencil - Rite-in-the-Rain brand waterproof notebook works
o            Ropeman or Tibloc - used in the crevasse rescue system
o            Compass - adjustable declination required
o            Altimeter - Suunto watch works well
o            Map Case - large zip-loc will suffice
o            Collapsible Water Canteen -  good for storing snowmelt at camp
GROUP GEAR PROVIDED BY PGS *Please contact the guiding office if you prefer to bring your own gear in place of any of our group gear.
o            Tents
o            Stoves
o            Fuel
o            Cooking Pots
o            Ropes
o            Technical Gear such as elaborate crevasse rescue kit and trad gear.
o            Group 1st Aid Kit
o            VHF radio or Satellite phone