All that changed five years ago when deep-pocketed Japanese investors snapped up the ever-dying Tod Mountain, renamed it Sun Peaks Resort, created a base village with hotels and restaurants, installed new high-speed lifts, cut extensive new trails the average skier would not cartwheel down, and announced to the world that after Whistler, Sun Peaks would be the place for discriminating skiers to sample another side of British Columbia's very ample ski wares.
Another side it is. Tod Mountain, the peak upon which the resort is built, is located in the dry interior of British Columbia at the southern end of the Cariboo Mountains and the northern end of the Monashees. The mountain rises above the undulating hills surrounding it like a rogue wave. Sun Peaks lacks the 7000 skiable acres of the Whistler/Blackcomb complex, but among the 1200 acres of in-bound holdings are enough steeps, trees, and cruisers to give serious skiers a serious affinity to this hill. Just outside of the area's boundaries are hundreds of additional acres of off-piste skiing that locals are tight-lipped about. And for now, the area lacks crowds: A busy day here would be considered a disaster at Whistler.
HOW TO SKI THE MOUNTAIN
Sun Peaks offers fall-line cruising, that's as steep and sustained as any. The recent development of mellow terrain (green and blue runs) over on Sundance Ridge gives the resort something of an old-mountain, new-mountain feel. Mostly locals and hardcores prowl the diamond and double diamond runs on the "old" part of the mountain around the Burfield Quad and the Crystal Triple Chair. The ski-suit set tend to frequent the blue runs off the new Sunburst Express and the many easier runs parallelling the Sundance Express.
POWDER
After storms strike, ride to the top of the Burfield Quad and ski the open flanks of Chief Ridge. Then catch the steeps of either Challenger or Expo. Take a few laps and, if you manage to get a local to tell you how, also link up Chief Ridge with Freddy's Nightmare. On a weekday, you're likely to ski the runs off the Burfield lift all day without tiring of them or trashing them out. As the week days progress--or on weekends--hit the inbound tree runs of Kukamungas as the open runs start getting battle worn and, when Kukamungas is despoiled, start pushing lines out Gils (see backcountry).
TREES
The in-bound glades of Kukamungas are accessed from the top of the Burfield. Although it only takes a few skiers to ski them out, if you get Avalanche Run and Freddy's Nightmare right away you'll be loving it. Head to Gils for out-of-bounds glades and trees.
GROOMERS
The resort prides itself on the quality and quantity of its grooming. For a 3000-vertical-foot thigh burner, ski from the top of the Burfield down the Chief to Highway 22A, then merge with The Ridge and scream down to the Burfield Lodge. Broadway, Cruiser, and Cariboo (all accessed from the Sunburst Express) are also excellent cruisers that can launch you on long airs if you hit the rolls with speed.
BUMPS
Hit the long double-diamond steeps of Expo for the gnarliest bumps. The Headwall off the Crystal Chair is also notorious for bumps: Skiers' left of the Headwall and skiers' right of the adjacent run (Hat Trick) delivers the sweetest lines.
SPRING
Cruise in the morning on Chief, Ridge, and groomers off the Sunburst Quad. By afternoon stick to the Burfield and ski Sunnyside, Kukamungas, Expo, and Ridge.
IN-BOUNDS HIKING
Try Mid-Mountain (skiers' right of the Burfield Chair), Father Tom's (just off Mid Mountain). If you get a local drunk, you might even find out where Neck Deep is.
BACKCOUNTRY
Gils when it's hot. Gils when it's not. Gils when it's deep. Gils when it's dry. It can be 10 days since the last dump and skiers who duck the rope atop of Crystal Chair, and shuffle along the kilometer-long ridge capping Gils will find stashes of fresh snow. Initial lines off the ridge offer the best glades and trees. Steeps like Executioner and Elevator are 15 or 20 minutes out and should be skied with transceivers peeping.
A new hit that many locals have yet to explore is Mt. Morrisey. Located on the opposite side of the village from the current lifts, several runs have been cut on these north-facing slopes in anticipation of a new lift that will be built in a few years. It's steep, dry, and untracked up there. But it's also a fair walk from the village base.
SNOWBOARDING
Single-boarded and double-boarded sliders share good karma here. Snowboarders won't find many cliffs but there's challenging hidden terrain, plenty of rollers to launch off, and a big terrain park built for boarders.
NORDIC SKIING
Sun Peaks Cross-Country Trails: 40 km of trail, 20 km of which are groomed regularly (250-578-7222).
SKI SCHOOL
FOOD
Bento's offers the cheapest on-mountain meals (cafeteria style)--a cinnamon bun or a McSunny are especially good for breakfast. The Lunch Special at the Stube in Sun Peaks Lodge is usually a good deal. BBQ Ribs at the Bottom's Bar & Grill and Pizza at Mackers (both in the village) aren't cheap, but portion size makes them a good value. If you're celebrating, try the steak at Val Senales. In Kamloops try either Peter's Pasta or The Mongolian Grill.
LODGING
No budget hotels are part of the on-mountain mix, but low-season specials before Christmas and after New Years are worth investigating. Groups may also find a condo unit affordable. Kamloops (45 minutes away) has a variety of affordable ski/lodging packages. Central reservations (800-807-3257) has the best read on packages on and off the mountain.
For longer stays, pump staff members for info; they're likely to have insight or connections. The Administration Desk at the Burfield Day Lodge maintains a list of staff accommodations.
APRES SKI
When the "Burf" (Burfield Daylodge about a 1.5 km down valley from the village) is open, it's the main hang. Masa's and Mackers (in the village) are favored sites when the Burf is closed.
HOT TIP
Thursday is "Local's Night" at Bottom's Bar and Grill.
TRANSPORTATION
Getting There:
Nearest airport is Kamloops (Canadian and Air Canada both fly in). Most on-mountain accommodations provide a shuttle for guests who fly in. The resort is a 45-minute drive north and east of Kamloops. Most locals park and ski from the Burfield Base.
Local:
If you're staying at the village, everything is within a short walk. The Sun Star Shuttle (250-319-3539) can get carless visitors between the Burfield and the Village bases.
JUST THE FACTS
Resort: 250-578-7222
Reservations: 800-807-3257
Snow Report: 250-578-7232
Web Site: www.sunpeaksresort.com
Lift Ticket (97/98): $41 CND
Season's Pass: $599 CND before October 25, $699 after October 25
Vertical Footage: 2894 feet
Skiing Acreage: 1200 acres
Number of Lifts: 6
Lift Hours: 9:00 to 3:30 (extended in spring)
Length of Season: November 27 to April 12Earliest Opening: early November
Latest Closing: mid-April
Population: 80 full-time residents, 2500 beds.
Note: Prices listed in this article were compiled in 1997.
